Rug Fiber Care Table

One table, one row per fiber, and every cell traced to a named source: the Canadian Conservation Institute (a Government of Canada heritage conservation body), the Carpet and Rug Institute (the US carpet industry's trade association), the UC Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program and the Federal Trade Commission. Where no primary source we could find covers a point, the cell says so instead of guessing. Sources read November 13, 2026.

FiberWhat it is, and what eats itLight, heat and dampCleaning: what the sources say
WoolProtein (keratin) fiber. Clothes moth and carpet beetle larvae eat it: CCI says they "perforate and consume keratinous protein fibre, such as wool" (CCI 13/1).Heat "causes wool to lose its natural oils, which weakens the threads"; high humidity can make colors bleed (CCI).Vacuum with a standard head, not a power head, at low suction, in the direction of the pile; don't use commercial carpet shampoos on important rugs (CCI).
SilkProtein fiber. Pests "will attack silk, cotton and synthetics if soils are present" (CCI 13/1).Light fades colors and weakens fibers, and light damage is "cumulative and irreversible" (CCI 13/1).For Oriental, Turkish or Persian rugs, the Carpet and Rug Institute says to follow the maker's instructions or use a professional, and "For heirloom-type rugs, you need professionals" (CRI).
Cotton (often the foundation)Cellulose fiber. CCI says cellulosic fibers such as cotton, linen and rayon are "particularly vulnerable" to mould (CCI 13/15).Mould is unlikely below 60% RH with good air circulation (CCI 13/15). At 70% RH mould takes three months or more to develop; at 90% RH, a few days (CCI 13/1).Dry a wet rug quickly; blot spills with clean absorbent cloth, don't rub, then weight it down until dry (CCI).
Jute, sisal and other plant fibersCellulose fibers. CCI lists jute among the cellulosic textiles that "have become acidified by pollution" when long exposed and unwashed (CCI 13/1).Damp is the main risk: CCI calls damp "over 70% RH" the one condition that should always be avoided (CCI 13/1).No primary source we found gives cleaning steps for jute or sisal rugs; follow the maker's label and keep them dry. See our jute and sisal guide.
Rayon / viscose (including "bamboo")Manufactured cellulose fiber. Products made from bamboo-derived rayon must be called rayon or viscose; the FTC sought penalties of $2.5 million and $3 million from Kohl's and Walmart over "bamboo" claims (FTC).Cellulosic, so mould-prone like cotton (CCI 13/15); CCI also lists 20th-century synthetics such as rayon among chemically less stable textiles (CCI 13/1).No primary source we found gives home cleaning steps for viscose rugs. Treat water with caution, test a hidden corner, and see our viscose guide.
Nylon, polyester, polypropylene (olefin)Synthetic fibers. Mould "will even grow on synthetic fibres such as nylon and polyester if they are soiled" (CCI 13/15).Pests may chew synthetics "if soils are present or if these fabrics block the way to a food source" (CCI 13/1).For small rugs labeled machine washable, CRI suggests warm water (90 to 105 degrees) with a mild detergent and tumble drying on the lowest heat (CRI). Follow the label first.

Rules that apply to every fiber

  • Don't fold a rug for storage; roll it, clean and dry, face down onto a wide tube, and store it off the floor (CCI).
  • CCI recommends an underlay 1/8 to 1/4 in. (3 to 6 mm) thick that reaches the rug's edges, and advises against underlays with self-adhesives or made of foam rubber, vinyl, jute or recycled felt (CCI).
  • Rotate rugs periodically so they wear evenly, and use castor cups under furniture feet (CCI).
  • CRI's rule of thumb is to vacuum at least once a week, daily in high-traffic areas, and to have carpet professionally deep cleaned every 12 to 18 months (CRI). CRI writes for carpet in general; on a valuable hand-made rug, CCI's gentler method above is the safer one.
  • For washable textiles, UC IPM says laundering for 20 to 30 minutes in water at least 120°F kills all stages of clothes moths (UC IPM). Most rugs are not washable that way; see our moth and carpet beetle guide for the alternatives.

The table is a summary for readers, not conservation advice for a specific rug. A valuable, antique or silk rug belongs with a professional cleaner or a textile conservator.

How we work

An independent reference site, written with AI assistance from published sources (how). No shop, no sponsored placements, no ranked “best of” lists anyone paid to appear in.

01 — Independent

We sell nothing

No shop, no inventory, no affiliate rankings. Display advertising funds the site, it is labelled where it appears, and advertisers see no guide before it runs.

02 — Fibre-specific

Every method names its fibre

No cleaning or repair instruction is published without stating the fibre and construction it is safe for, and where it is unsafe. Damage from cleaning a rug is usually permanent, so a general-purpose tip is worse than none.

03 — Candid limits

We say when we don’t know

Age, origin and value cannot be settled from a photograph. Where that wall is reached, the guide says so and points at what an in-person appraisal would settle.

About what you read here. Everything on Rug Academy is general information. Articles are drafted with AI assistance from published sources, and the ones marked as checked have had every figure compared with the source they cite (see our editorial policy). We say when the evidence is unclear, but we can be wrong, things change, and no article can know your particular situation. Please do your own research and make your own judgement rather than treating anything here as the final word. Prices, products and specifications around rugs and their care change constantly, and what suits one person will not suit another. Check current details yourself, and where a decision involves real money, safety or something you cannot undo, it is worth confirming with a professional rug cleaner or restorer before you act.